Translating Kalyan Architectural Ornament into Avant-Garde Fashion through Manipulating Fabric Cording

Abstract

This study investigates how Kalyan architectural ornament can be translated into avant-garde fashion through a structured design process and expert-based evaluation. Kalyan architecture in Bukhara, Uzbekistan, was selected because its dome form, repetitive geometry, ornamental surface, monumental verticality, and turquoise-silver visual identity provide a rich basis for experimental garment construction. The study used design-based research guided by the Double Diamond model, consisting of Discover, Define, Develop, and Deliver stages. Visual analysis of Kalyan architecture was conducted to identify transferable elements, which were synthesized into the design concept 'Eternal Geometry Kalyan.' The concept was developed through a moodboard, five design alternatives, selected design refinement, technical drawings, material exploration, and garment construction using mikado liquid fabric, organza, circular support, flounces, smock, and fabric-cording manipulation. The final product was assessed by three fashion experts using six criteria: avant-garde silhouette, concept suitability, creativity and innovation, symbolic translation, material and technique, and runway visual appearance. Descriptive analysis produced an overall mean score of 3.42 on a five-point scale, placing the garment in the good category. Material and technique achieved the highest score (4.00), while creativity and innovation and symbolic translation each obtained 2.70. The findings demonstrate that architectural ornament can become a generative fashion system when transformed through visual abstraction, material experimentation, structural construction, and reflective evaluation. The study contributes a practical model for architecture-inspired avant-garde fashion design and identifies areas for stronger symbolic communication in future prototypes.